The 39th International Poncho Festival that will take place in the capital of the Argentine province of Catamarca from July 23 to August 2 will showcase the handicraft of hundreds of artisans from Argentina and other Latin American countries. Live folk music and dancing, regional food, gourmet cooking classes and lectures on subjects of cultural interest will be additional attractions. Information: http://www.turismocatamarca.gov.ar/.
Agreste, a Buenos Aires travel agency that specializes in non-conventional tourism for travelers interested in local culture and the outdoors, will conduct an 11-day tour of the towns of the Puna and Humahuaca Valley in the Argentine province of Jujuy from July 24 to August 3. It costs 1,730 pesos, including hotels, half board, coordinator, and all excursions and local transfers, with bus or airfare apart. Information: 4373-4442.
The Temaikén zoo in Escobar (50 km from Buenos Aires) recently opened what is billed as the biggest aviary in South America, with 2,500 birds of 200 species from the Americas, Oceania, Africa and Eurasia visible in natural habitats in an area of 3 hectares. General admission to the zoo costs 48 pesos and 35 pesos for children under 10, and half that on Tuesdays. Information: http://www.temaiken.com.ar/.
A new trilingual field guide to the flora and fauna of the Iguazú Falls area recently published in Argentina will delight nature lovers. Iguazú Guía de Campo, by Marcelo Beccaceci (South World, 2008, 67 pages) contains more than 500 full color illustrations identified in English, Spanish and Portuguese, a map of the national parks, and a brief description of the region´s geology and geography. It costs 48 pesos and is available in bookstores such as El Ateneo, Yenny, Cúspide, and the Boutique del Libro franchises.
Buenos Aires’ Costanera Norte riverside drive suffers from heavy port traffic; the proximity of squatters’ slums; the airport that borders it; and the clubs, restaurants and events halls that block the view of the river. If porteños turn their back on the river, it is because they have been deprived of contact with their side of the estuary. So they like going to Montevideo, where the situation is different.
Montevideo is also a lot smaller than Buenos Aires (1,400,000 million inhabitants vs. 11 million for BA counting the Greater Buenos Aires urban sprawl). That means less stress in the Uruguayan capital. It is a pleasant, tidy time-warp city that has preserved most of its Art Nouveau and Art Déco buildings, in addition to the Spanish colonial fort that overlooks its harbor. Its only high building is the relatively new Communications Tower. Its people are amiable and seem more relaxed than their neighbors across the River Plate estuary.
The Port Market looks like an old English railway station, and there are several versions as to how it made its way to Montevideo. It opened in 1868 as a food market that supplied ships, and ended up as a picturesque food court. The former stalls inside are occupied by some fish restaurants and steak houses, and several grills that have a long U-shaped bar at which clients sit to eat barbecue specialties. One such grill serves a potent medio y medio cocktail (half sweet white wine and half white sparkling wine, or champagne, if you please) to a garrulous clientele that packs the aisles in the winter and spills out onto the mall in the summer while waiting for a table. On Weekends, itinerant musicians liven up the place and artisans arrange their creations on blankets out on the esplanade. 
The Tristán Narvaja market, which on Sunday occupies more than 20 blocks of the eponymous street starting at its intersection with Avenida 18 de Julio, has everything you could dream of, and more. It is a favorite of collectors of antiques, coins, postage stamps, old books and used records. Absolutely everything is sold there, from clothing to plants and pets. It opens at 9am and the merchants begin to dismantle their stalls at 2pm; as there is a lot to see, it is best to get there before midday.
The antiques and crafts fair held in the Plaza Matriz square in the Old Town on Saturday is a good excuse to have a look at that square – the city’s oldest – and the rest of the neighborhood.
Arteuy (www.arteuy.com.uy) takes you to artists’ studios in the Old City, starting from meeting points at three hotels and ending with a drink in the Port Market.
Downtown, an obligatory stop for those interested in early 20th-century South American art is the museum at Peatonal Sarandí 683, which showcases the works of constructivist painter Joaquín Torres García, founder of the Escuela del Sur (Southern School), whose students prioritized artistic expression with a Uruguayan and South American identity. The museum is open every day but Sunday.
Also downtown, the Teatro Solís, Montevideo’s recently refurbished 19th-century neoclassical opera house, offers guided tours in Spanish, English and Portuguese on every day but Monday. During the 50-minute tour, two actors appear from time to time to illustrate key moments in the history of the theater. See schedules at http://www.teatrosolis.org.uy/.
In addition to its splendid permanent exhibitions of the works of Uruguayan artists Juan Manuel Blanes (1830-1901) and Pedro Figari (1861-1938), the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes Juan Manuel Blanes (Av. Millán 4015 in the Prado neighborhood) has a nice coffee shop in a large winter garden setting where plays and concerts are given. Set in an Italian-style villa that was built for a wealthy family in 1870, it is open every day but Monday.
Those looking for something a bit more upscale or bohemian should try the Molino de Pérez, an old mill in the Malvín neighborhood that has been transformed into a gourmet restaurant and cultural center. Art exhibitions and concerts are given there.
Events
Just past the control post at the entrance to El Colibrí are the club house and two perfectly manicured polo fields. El Colibrí has its own polo team. But the idea is for guests to learn or perfect their game there too.
Beyond a grove of trees is the colonial-looking but new hotel, in front of which the owners and staff greet guests. Inside the building is a world of enormous, tastefully arranged spaces and colors with temperature and humidity control, high vaulted ceilings, chandeliers in bedrooms and bathrooms, and the possibility of dining in different areas. It is like house, but with the dimensions of a hotel. Upon your arrival, and if you accept, your bags will be taken to your room to be unpacked and your clothing will be arranged in closets and drawers according to type and color while you have breakfast, lunch or a snack. There are nine suites and bedrooms. The food is fantastic. Out back, the horses graze in an alfalfa field on the other side of the swimming pool. 
In addition to equestrian activities, guests have go-kart and canopy courses at their disposal, and are near the golf courses of Ascochinga and Villa Allende. Every detail is taken care of, and the owners love making the place live up to its commercial “estancia de charme” moniker.
The five remaining Jesuit ranches in the province of Córdoba, and the order’s main buildings in the provincial capital, comprise a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site, as well as the province’s 250-km-long “Jesuit Ranches Road” circuit, which promotes lodging in country hotels and working ranches near the former colonial properties. The San Ignacio ranch no longer exists. Of the others, only the churches, and, in most cases, the administrative buildings, are still with us. The land they exploited was auctioned off to other landholders following their expulsion in 1767 and later subdivided, and their universities were nationalized in the 19th century. The order returned to Argentina in 1853, but didn’t open universities again until the mid-20th century.
La Ranchería. Here you can enjoy cold cuts and/or a barbecue lunch to the heavenly strains of the American baroque music by Italian-born composer Domenico Zipoli (1688-1726), who taught music at Santa Catalina. Reservations must be made for lunch or dinner by calling (0352) 542-4467 or (03525) 424-467. Accommodation in artfully recycled slaves’ quarters is also available.
The post house museum has two carriages from that period.
For a look at what else El Colibrí has to offer, see http://http://http//http//http//www.estanciaelcolibri.com/.
PHOTO CREDITS: El Colibrí's paint horses in front of the Santa Catalina church, Bonnie Tucker. Polo horses in front of the El Colibrí Club House, Bonnie Tucker. The luxury ranch's swimming pool and main living room, El Colibrí. The Jesuits' early 17th-century university and church in the city of Córdoba, period engraving. Composer Domenico Zipoli, period portrait. Sinsacate post house, Bonnie Tucker. The ambush in which Facundo Quiroga was murdered, period engraving.
Ranches: DOS TALAS (Dolores, Province of Buenos Aires) is a ranch owned by a traditional family of descendants of Pedro Luro, developer of the city of Mar del Plata. The main house, built in 1893, has a large library and was frequented by famous members of the European and Argentine cultural scenes during the entire 20th century. Guests are attended personally by the owners. http://www.dostalas.com.ar/.
Inns and small hotels: EL MOLINO DE CACHI (Cachi, Province of Salta) is a cozy Spanish colonial-style inn built around a 17th-century grain mill, whose millstone still functions in part of the breakfast room. The owners restored the building in 1994, adding five finely decorated rooms and a suite. Later, they planted a vineyard and built a small winery. They organize excursions and expeditions in the province for their guests. http://www.bodegaelmolino.com.ar/.
Hotels: EL CASCO (Bariloche, Province of Río Negro). Argentina’s first “art hotel” is the creation of a well-known Buenos Aires art dealer, who purchased this famous property from a European baroness a few years ago and updated its layout to accommodate his project. Each of the 33 suites has original paintings by famous Argentine artists, and the gourmet signature cuisine of its chef is well known. http://www.hotelelcasco.com/.
Museum: MNBA Neuquén (Neuquén, Province of Neuquén). The first annex of the National Museum of Fine Arts outside Buenos Aires, it was installed in the provincial capital in 2000 thanks to the good offices of the city Culture and Sports Secretary. Its permanent headquarters, built according to modern architectural standards for art museums, opened in 2004. http://www.mnbaneuquen.com.ar/.
Personality: Valeria Atela (Chascomús, Province of Buenos Aires). In 1998, the present director of the Chascomús School Orchestra decided to give children and adolescents in local schools an alternative way to progress based on playing music. The project began with 35 students and now there are more than 350 aged 3 to 21, who perform in four different age-determined groups. http://www.orquesta-escuela.com.ar/.
Guides and small adventure travel companies: EL JABIRÚ (Las Lomitas, Province of Formosa). In 2003, two young naturalists went to live near the Bañado de la Estrella wetland, which is home to more than 300 species of birds. They specialize in custom tours of the region, including the Río Pilcomayo National Park and its surroundings. http://www.eljabiru.com.ar/.
Activities: BIG ICE (El Calafate, Province of Santa Cruz). The company, which has been a concessionaire of the Los Glaciares National Park for the past 20 years, became famous for its successful guided excursion known as Minitrekking, which enables tourists to walk on a small part of the Perito Moreno glacier with ice crampons for about an hour. In 2004-2005 they went further and offered Big Ice, a full day of hiking toward the center of the glacier. http://www.hieloyaventura.com/.
Gastronomy: LAS BALSAS (Villa La Angostura, Neuquén). For the past eight years, Chef Pablo Campoy, 34, has been in charge of the kitchen of Las Balsas, a member of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux hotel and restaurant group. Since his arrival in 2001, after having practiced his profession in Argentina and Spain for several years, Las Balsas has won several awards and mentions that consecrate its restaurant as one of the best outside Buenos Aires. http://www.lasbalsas.com/.
While one usually pays less by reserving in advance, it is not a good idea to book a week during the first low season (in June), because in many centers there has been little or no snow at that time during the past few years. It’s like playing the lottery: you can lose, or win, in that order. Just take a look at the portals of the ski centers on both sides of the Andes: at mid-June this year, most hadn’t been updated. The only honest one was Las Leñas, whose three live cameras showed the sad truth: only a few scattered white patches. This was perhaps because the southern Mendoza resort had been one of the few with the nerve to push their opening date forward to the second weekend of June.
But then came the reward: on June 17 it began to snow like mad there, three days before the classic June 20 official opening date that had been the benchmark for many ski centers in previous years.
This year most centers have announced an early October closing date, although compliance will depend, as always, on the weather, which is becoming more and more unpredictable.
In Argentina the ski centers where the snow seems to last longer are La Hoya (Chubut), because of the mountain’s orientation, and Cerro Castor (Tierra del Fuego), also for its orientation, and for its closeness (1,000 km) to that big ice box called Antarctica.
In the southern Andes the leading ski centers are Catedral, Las Leñas, Chapelco and Cerro Castor in Argentina, and Portillo, Valle Nevado and Chillán in Chile.
There are many other small or emergent centers, especially in Argentina.
All the Argentine and Chilean centers have ski and snowboard schools, as well as runs for all levels of proficiency that attract people of all ages. Many that specialize in Alpine (downhill) skiing have also opened sectors for cross-country (or Nordic) skiing.
The choice of a ski center depends on one’s personal circumstances, one’s idea of what a vacation should be like, and, finally, preferences as to landscapes. And most experienced skiers want powder snow.
In addition to the prices and landscape of a determined center, many people also want there to be additional entertainment in the resort or in a nearby city. Others prefer a place far from city noise, where people only want to ski.
Las Leñas, Portillo and Chillán are far from cities, while Valle Nevado and Catedral are very near “civilization.”
The ones with the broadest, most spectacular lake views are Catedral and Cerro Bayo.
Skiers at Caviahue enjoy an unforgettable view of the homonymous lake in a strange volcanic landscape sprinkled with extravagant araucaria forests. Las Leñas and Portillo occupy valleys in the Andean vastness, while some tracks at Antillanca put skiers amid the peaks and volcanic cones.
Chillán, located at the foot of a volcanic massif, has equipped its two hotels with outdoor thermal pools and has a refined spa in the best of the two. It also has the famous Don Otto 2.5-km-long double chairlift, which arrives near the rim of the Chillán Nuevo volcano and the beginnings of three “red tracks,” also on a level with other nearby Andean peaks.
In Argentina, heli-skiing services are offered mainly at Las Leñas, but also at Chapelco. In Chile they are on offer at all the main winter resorts.
Penitentes (Mendoza)
Cerro Bayo (Neuquén)
For information on other ski centers in Argentina, see the tourism portals of the provinces of Mendoza (http://www.turismo.mendoza.gov.ar/) , Neuquén (http://www.neuquentur.gov.ar/) , Río Negro (http://www.rionegrotur.com.ar/), Santa Cruz (http://www.santacruzpatagonia.gob.ar/) y Tierra del Fuego (http://www.tierradelfuego.org.ar/).
Chillán
http://www.nevadosdechillan.com/
Villarrica
http://www.skipucon.cl/
Antillanca
http://www.skiantillanca.cl/
For information on other ski centers in Chile, see http://www.gochile.cl/
PHOTO CREDITS: Skiing on Cerro Bayo, Cerro Bayo. Shoveling snow in Las Leñas, Las Leñas. Family fun at Cerro Bayo, Cerro Bayo. Snowboarding on Cerro Bayo, Cerro Bayo. Skiing on Cerro Catedral, Cerro Catedral Alta Patagonia. Snowmobiling amid araucarias in Caviahue, Caviahue. The pool at Portillo, Portillo. Heliskiers, Burco Adventure. Skiers at Las Leñas, Las Leñas. Off-track skiing on Cerro Catedral, Cerro Catedral Alta Patagonia. Magic Carpet conveyer ski lift at Cerro Chapelco, Cerro Chapelco. Snowboarding at Cerro Castor, Cerro Castor. Skier at Valle Nevado, Valle Nevado. The scene at Antillanca, Antillanca.
But not even habitual mate consumers imagine the intricacies of the folk rituals that have developed around this practice over the past two centuries, grafted by immigrants from many different countries onto a mestizo rootstalk.
While nowadays the word “mate” is used to refer to both the infusion and the container in which it is steeped, the museum deals with the container and the folklore associated with it in Argentina, the world’s biggest yerba mate producer.
Inaugurated on February 23, 2009 in an elegant 1930s house facing the Tigre River, the museum is the creation of Jorge Díaz, a former tourism director of Baradero, a Buenos Aires Province town on the Paraná River. The collection contains more than 2,000 pieces acquired over a period of 30 years by its creator Francisco Scutellá, of Paraná, Entre Ríos. Scutellá, who sold the collection to Díaz, is the author of five books that are among those on sale in the new museum’s gift shop.
The variety of mates and yerberas (lidded containers with compartments for yerba and sugar) shows the extent to which mate sipping was one of the few habits that cut across social classes.
One learns that small-mouth mates keep the dirt out of the infusion in windy areas, and wide-mouth ones are for places with little wind. Gourd mates are encased in leather to help them retain heat and avoid breakage.
More common still are the ghastly cloven cow-hoof mates so ubiquitous in souvenir shop windows in Argentina and Uruguay.
For those who feel that sharing a bombilla is anti-hygienic, there is a disposable plastic mate and bombilla that Establecimiento Las Marías sells in a sealed bag together a telgopor thermos and a package of its Taragüi-brand yerba. The Syrians, who have been importing a lot of yerba since the mid-19th century, have taken a similar decision; in their country everybody takes his or her own mate, bombilla and bag of yerba to parties, sharing the hot water at most.
Chapelco (Neuquén)